Sunday, December 27, 2009

Diamond Peak Summit!!!

Today at around 3:20 I reached the summit of Diamond Peak, in Lassen National Park, at an elevation of 7,968 ft. The trek to the summit was 2.5 miles and involved over 1,800 vertical feet of climbing. The weather, while not great, was good enough that would could reach our goal of the summit.

We started at around 9:30am and proceeded snowshoeing up the road from the visitor center, heading toward the "Ranger Cutoff Trail 1." Once reaching that first checkpoint the real climbing began as we started to ascend quickly to the final altitude of 7,968 ft. For the first part we had a trail to follow that appeared to have been traveled sometime in the past few days, later in the trek however we had to begin on untracked snow on our way to the summit. For most of the time I took the lead on the climb, deciding our route to avoid possibilities of avalanche as much as possible as well as packing down the snow to make way for those to follow. Later around 400 vertical feet from the summit we stopped for a quick lunch, before the final push to the summit. After our lunch the snow became once again harder to travel, as I once again took the lead. The ridge began to narrow as we gained altitude and the slopes on either side continued becoming more steep and unforgiving. At last, we were ready for the final 100 foot push the summit, this area of the mountain was extremely prone to avalanches, due to the steepness of the slope and other conditions. We then proceeded to climb one by one to the peak, climbing on a ridge only about 4-5 feet wide with extremely steep slopes on either side, one false step and you would be sliding over 500 feet down the mountain and most likely triggering an avalanche. 8 of the 11 who started made it to the final altitude of 7,968 ft and we stayed just a few moments after the final person reaching the summit before I proceeded to be the first to begin the descent. Ice axe in had I was ready to descend the ridge that we just barely made it up, then about 30 feet down I lost my footing and began sliding, and not straight down the ridge but rather toward the northern face, immediately attempting to self arrest i was successful and soon descending on foot once again, later to need to self arrest a few more times before reaching the spot where we had lunch. Once there I had consumed all 64 oz. of water I carried for the trip and had some time before the group would catch up to me so proceeded to setup my stove and melt snow to get another 64 oz. of water which was enough to get down the mountain. On the way down we made very good time as I once again led the group, trying to push them a little bit on the final segment of our journey.

Saturday, December 26, 2009

Diamond Peak

Well it appears that another storm is coming in tonight...great time for mountain climbing! Tomorrow we, some people from NCOA, are planning on attempting to make it to the peak via diamond peak ridge, avoiding the very avalanche prone face of the mountain. Currently snow is expected throughout the day tomorrow as well as cooler temperatures and strong winds. Depending on how the group does we may have to save the peak for another day and instead hike along the other various ridges. We are also planning on doing some avalanche training mixed in with it tomorrow for those who don't have experience with snow stability testing and use of avalanche probes and other procedures. Also going to take this as an opportunity to test out my new MSR Whisperlite Internationale stove as well as some other new gear. I will post the events of the day and pictures sometime in the evening tomorrow...

Tuesday, December 22, 2009

Some forgotten pictures from the climb

here are some forgotten pictures from the climb...

getting ready to begin the climb, still waiting for a few people, the mountain looks rather ominous...


taken from around 4,000 ft, not very high but still a great view of the fog moving toward whiskeytown


taken from around 5,000 ft, everything is concealed by fog, not much like the view i wanted, but still very nice

Sunday, December 20, 2009

Shasta Bally Summit!


The weather was better than i couldve ever expected on the morning of our summit attempt of shasta bally. It was very foggy in redding but once headed toward the trail head things began to clear up. Four showed up for the climb, two had to turn back around 2,5000 vertical feet from the top, and the other turned back around 2,000 feet from the top, leaving me to be the only to finish the climb. We are planning on going back sometime in the near future so the rest can reach the summit, more climbing coming soon...

Friday, December 18, 2009

climbing shasta bally! right after the storm

tomorow i have planned to climb shasta bally, the last storm has just blown over and looks like the weather will just barely hold out for us until we get back off the mountain, i will be posting many pics from our climb tomorow when i return...